To convert from an AOD to a five-speed, you’ll need infrastructure in the form of a brake/clutch pedal assembly for it all to work together. You can approach this change a couple of ways. You can swap in just the clutch pedal and safety switch, or you can change out the entire pedal assembly with one from a donor car. Both involve some work, but both can be done in your garage without special tools.
And while you’re doing a pedal swap, adding a Steeda adjustable clutch cable kit will improve durability and enable you to adjust clutch-pedal engagement height to your tastes. As long as you have the pedal assembly apart, install new bushings and a brake light switch.
Shown here (pic above) are manual (left) and automatic (right) pedal-support assemblies. Aside from the clutch pedal, the manual pedal support has a clutch-pedal safety switch, preventing the engine from accidentally starting the engine in gear. It works through the same circuit as a neutral safety with an automatic. You can replace the entire pedal assembly or add the clutch pedal to an existing support. There’s also an automatic clutch-cable adjustor which must be added. The basic pedal support stamping is the identical.
Here’s a closer look at the clutch-pedal/support assembly, which includes the clutch-pedal safety switch.
INSTALLING THE STEEDA ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH PEDAL SYSTEM
The Steeda adjustable clutch-pedal system is easy to install, especially if your pedal support assembly is out of the car. It adjusts at the clutch fork and at the firewall.
To install, remove the automatic cable adjustor as shown, including this spring and nylon tensioner.
Install the Steeda quadrant. This billet-aluminum quadrant replaces the factory self-adjusting unit, increasing durability and adjusting the clutch pedal to your desired pedal height.
Steeda’s clutch cable quadrant, as it should appear installed.
The clutch cable conduit is modified to fit into Steeda’s firewall adjustor.
To make pedal support service easier, remove the driver’s seat, which calls for the removal of four retaining nuts and the disconnection of your seatbelt sensor. Next, use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the steering column collar.
For quick assembly on the line, the dashboard base cover pops out without tools.
Using a 10mm socket, remove cross brace bolts, then the cross brace. You now have access to the steering column and pedal support.
Remove the steering column firewall grommet. Be careful not to damage the boot, but be prepared to replace it. Move the heater duct out of the way.
This steering column bracket comes out next.
Using a large metric socket, remove the two steering column brackets. Remember, most Fox-body fasteners are metric, except for 5.0L engines, which are SAE.
Unplug the remaining electrical connections. This is an integral part of the ignition switch and locking steering column.
Moving around to the engine side of the firewall, this bolt joins the steering column and pinion shaft. Loosen it.
The steering column is free to be removed and set aside.
Now on to the pedal support assembly. Like the classic Mustangs, Fox-body Mustangs employ the same brake light switch and two-pin plug. Disconnect it and remove the switch. Above the brake light switch is the cruise-control disengagement switch, which must also be removed and pushed aside.
Unbolt the pedal support from the firewall.
Next, unbolt the pedal support from the dashboard and remove it.
At the firewall, the Steeda clutch adjustment collar is test-fit into the existing hole in the firewall. With a pencil or scribe, mark where the mounting hole will be drilled. Then drill a 1/8-inch hole in the firewall.
Install the collar with the sheetmetal screw provided.
Steeda’s adjustable firewall collar is installed next.
Grab your replacement manual-pedal assembly. Before you bolt it in place, feed the clutch cable through the firewall.
The cable end goes into the billet-aluminum Steeda quadrant under the dash, and the cable locks into the collar on the firewall.
Bolt the pedal assembly to the dashboard and firewall, just like it was. The installed pedal assembly should look like this.
When reinstalling the steering column, pay extra careful attention to the reconnection of the ignition switch, turn signal, warning flashers, cruise control, and horn. Take your time and get this right — no pinched wires, loose connections, or sloppy workmanship allowed.
Once everything is bolted in correctly and hooked up, go over it again and make sure all connections and fasteners are in the right place, and everything works smoothly. Don’t forget to tighten the steering-column coupling bolt under the hood.
Down under, the last chore is clutch-cable adjustment. You want a comfortable clutch action, but don’t overtighten or slippage can burn up your new clutch. Don’t forget the dust cover. Replacements are available from Modern Driveline, if needed.
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